Belle epoque diamond pear cluster fringe necklace by Chaumet, Paris c.1900,

Belle epoque diamond pear cluster fringe necklace by Chaumet, Paris c.1900,
Price: More than £50,000
Ref No. 05070
Enquire
+44 20 76 29 62 61
Description
the front designed as a looped scroll ribbon suspending a fringe of seven graduated cluster drops, set with old cut diamonds of cushion, rounded brilliant, pear and rose cut, the drops each centred by a principal oblong, cushion or rounded cut diamond, with smaller diamond above and each in single row border, upon knife-bar stems with pear cut diamond duos and delicate rose cut diamond laurel leaf surmount, the stem punctuating a loop of the ribbon, the back formed of rose cut diamond line baton links, mounted in silver and gold, signed 'CHAUMET PARIS', French gold and silver control marks, accompanied by certificate of authenticity from Chaumet.

Chaumet conceived the design of this jewel in 1896 when the firm was commissioned to make a tiara for the Archduchess Maria Dorothea of Austria (1867-1932) for her wedding to Philippe, Duke of Orleans. This first version, worn by the Archduchess in the two black and white photographs, is noted as having 'inverted arches interspersed with laurel-leaf elements supporting large diamonds in tapered openwork mounts' and was convertible to a necklace. Such was the design's popularity that several slightly different versions were made. This lot is one such version and a rare survivor.

For another version, the KeroUartz tiara, set with baroque pearl drops, that would have also had interchangeable diamond drops, see exhibition catalogue "Chaumet In Majesty, Jewels of Sovereigns since 1780", Monaco, 2019, pp 164-5. For more jewels by Chaumet incorporating similar "floating laurel leaves", made in 1900 and exhibited at the Paris Exposition, see Vever, Henri (trans. Purcell, Katherine), "French Jewellery of the 19th Century", London, 2001, pp. 1094-1096. The jury noted M. Chaumet's technical mastery and how his elegant jewels were carefully designed to enhance important gemstones
Inside length approximately 38.5cm / 15�''
Drop at front along full stem and cluster 6.4cm / 2�''
Weight: 58.5g
Full Screen
Print Format
Share

S.J. Phillips

S.J. Phillips Ltd

Belle epoque diamond pear cluster fringe necklace by Chaumet, Paris c.1900,

You May also like

Two stone diamond bombe cluster ring, French, topped by principal round brilliant cut stones, 1.52ct and 1.46ct,

Antique purple and yellow enamel and diamond pansy brooch, American c.1900,

Yellow gold and diamond leaf scroll strap bracelet by Cartier, New York, slightly bombe form alternating pave diamond scrolls with reeded gold leaf scrolls,

18ct gold and diamond 'Resille' mesh strap watch by Cartier, Paris 1968, of stylised chainmail design,

Art Deco diamond and pearl 'Tortue sans Pattes' wristwatch by Cartier, Paris,

Belle epoque diamond pear cluster fringe necklace by Chaumet, Paris c.1900,

05070

Early 20th century cabochon sapphire and diamond cluster swag jabot pendant brooch by Cartier, Paris c.1915,

Mid-20th century Burma ruby and baguette diamond cluster ring of architectural design, French c.1940, the trap-cut square 1.90ct Burma ruby,

Cabochon ruby, diamond and baguette diamond vase of flowers brooch, French,

Queen Anne silver brandy pan by Robert Timbrell & Joseph Bell I, London 1710,

Pair of George IV silver gilt grape scissors by John Reily, London 1823

Pair of George III silver twin trolley coasters by John Beldon, London 1792,

Empire French gold box in the form of a book, Paris 1819-1838, maker's mark for CP with an inverted 'I' symbol between,

Antique French gold mounted lapis lazuli rectangular snuff box by Adrien-Jean-Maximilien Vachette, Paris c.1798,

18th century banded agate and gold mounted rectangular box, English c.1760,